28 Aug 2015

Tobacco Linen Suit from Bladen

Inspired by a Swedish guy I am following on Instagram I looked by a Swedish Gentleman's Outfitter called Tweed Country Sports.They have a small store in Rörstrandsgatan in Stockholm and a fine online shop. I was looking for a linen or fresco suit to reinforce my Summer wardrobe.
I falled in love with a tobacco three-piece linen suit; made from the finest 12 oz Irish linen by British Bladen. A lovely cigar brown hue...

Tobacco linen suit from Bladen

Medium to high waist and accentuated pleats

The cut is contemporary with fitted jacket waist and shorter lenght. The trousers are also slim but with a medium-to-high waist and deep single forward pleats that gives room.
The making is ok; jacket half-lined with natural horsehair interlining and lined with cupro bemberg.
Real horn buttons - a must-have.
I am not too fond of the button-holes, though; being used to handmade quality from my vintage bespoke suits.
I will eventually change the cuffs to working cuffs with handmade button-holes; Bladen have most kindly fully prepared the cuffs for the change in their design.
Legs come unfinished (36"), so I made deep (55 mm) cuffs... lovely!
The suit creases  (obviously) during use but that is quite OK; fits the degree of informality and Summer.
It's a true versatile suit during Spring and Summer; suitable for office, for town, for garden, for day and evening. And easier to wear than my 1930s white linen suit.
And it's great for wearing as separetes: e.g. jacket with cream Fox flannels or trousers with a denim blue linen DB sports coat.

Cream Fox flannels; light blue DB cuff Stenström's shirt; green vintage silk RL untipped tie
 Handmade shoes from Vass in antique cognac
I prefer blue or blue-striped shirts with the suit - white seems too formal and adds too much contrast -  at least during day time.
The waistcoat needs more alterations;  It's always difficult to get a decent fit in a waistcoat, but in this case I also judge wrong design: the waistcoat is simply far too long (at least 2").
But all in all a lovely suit and not last time I will consider a pair of Bladen trousers - I really like the fit.
In regards to ready-to-wear linen jackets in this price range I prefer the making of Suit-supply; the comfortable, unconstructed, Neapolitan cut.

Denim blue linen DB jacket from Suit-supply; shantung silk tie from Drake's; pocket square from Rubinacci; Blue shirt from Stenström's; OTC cotton socks from Bresciani (#Mes Chausettes Rouges)

Real horn buttons. Cuffs prepared for working cuffs.
Dark leaf Cheaney's and deep cuffs.

23 Aug 2015

Shoe polishing Sunday - Cheaney "Edinburgh" re-visited

During this sunny weekend I spent quite some time on maitenance - shoes and boots polishing and re-proofing the Barbour oilskin jacket.

I paid my Cheaney "Edinburgh"s some extra attention today. Over time I had build up too many layers of shoe polish (Saphir Pâte de luxe in Havane-Tabak brown) which resulted in small cracks in the surface. Creases are a natural process, but cracks in the surface due to too much polish are not pretty.

First I washed down the uppers with a horsehair brush and warm soap water. After drying in the shadow for a while I cleansed the leather with Saphir "Réno 'Mat".
Next step was to massage the uppers with "Mink oil renovator" from The Shoe Snob Shop.
Later I brushed the shoes down and applied a thin layer of Saphir Pâte de luxe (#34, Havane-Tabak brown).
Final step was to add some extra shine using the Shoe Snob Shop bee's wax.

I am still very happy with these shoes - and still a visit to the cobbler can wait. I have used the shoes a lot and even during last year's Copenhagen Tweed Ride they were utterly soaked with water due to all day rain.

Shoe polishing "ingredients"



Still plenty of miles in these


Creases are acceptable

A good guide to shoe polishing is found at the Shoe Snob Blog.

I purchased my Cheaney "Edinburgh" a little more than two years ago. I re-visted the shoes a year ago: haethaenstat.blogspot.dk/2014/08/the-cheaney-revisited.

The new shoes


17 Aug 2015

While not updating the blog during Summer...

Summer has been over us the last 6 weeks - things have been slower at work during the different colleague's vacations and I also have had two seperate weeks of vacation.
Also on the sartorial matters things have been paused for a while - hence the lack of updates of the blog.
But while not updating the blog I still got some new acquisitions I would like to share with you at a later point and I have slowly but surely started doing needed alterations and repairs to my attire.

I am practising my buttonholes - using Gütermann's silk threads and gimps. My experience is now adding up to five buttonholes and I expect something around a hundred tries before I will try it out on one of my sports coats.
Eventually all my RTW jackets and suits will need handmade buttonholes.

I found some gorgeous knitting from Nottingham, England. More in a later post when the weather calls for tweed again.

I am in the proces of making Italian shirt shoulders (Spalla Manica a Camicia) on my vintage unconstructed cotton summer suit jacket. I had hoped to wear the suit this Summer, but things progress more slowly than I hoped for. I will most likely not reveal the suit until next Spring.

I acquired a lovely vintage bespoke  two-piece suit made from an exquisite light/medium weight cloth from Holland & Sherry. The suit only need little alterations to be taken into use. More in a later post...
During the last months you might have noticed that I have been slightly more active on Instagram and Tumblr; you are welcome to visit me here also...

Hope you all had a lovely Summer!

Greetings from Gudhjem, Bornholm